Halloween Driving Safety Tips

Drive slowly, and don't pass stopped vehicles. The driver might be dropping off children.

Park your mobile phone. Avoid distractions by waiting until you've stopped to call, text, or surf.

Watch for children darting into the street. Kids can cross the street anywhere, and most young pedestrian deaths happen at spots other than intersections.

Yield to young pedestrians. Children might not stop, either because they don't see your vehicle approaching or don't know how to safely cross the street.

Communicate with other drivers. Always use your turn signals. And if you have to pull over to drop off or pick up your kids, turn on your hazard lights.

And, to keep your own trick-or-treaters safe:

Teach them how to safely cross streets. They should look both ways and cross only at corners and crosswalks.

Consider indoor community Halloween programs for younger kids. Some communities also offer to help you inspect your kids' treats to make sure they're safe to eat.

Brighten them up. Give them flashlights and glow sticks, and/or use reflective tape on their costumes, so drivers can see them.

Winter Car Driving Tips

If you must use your car during a storm...

Plan your travel, selecting both primary and alternate routes. Let someone know your travel routes and itinerary so that, if you don't arrive on time, officials will know where to search for you. Check latest weather information on your radio. Try not to travel alone - two or three people are preferable. Travel in convoy (with another vehicle) if possible. Drive carefully and defensively. Watch for ice patches on bridges and overpasses. If a storm begins to be too much for you to handle, seek refuge immediately. If your car should become disabled, stay with the vehicle, running your engine and heater for short intervals. Be sure to "crack" a window in the vehicle to avoid carbon monoxide build-up.

Reliable transportation is especially important in the winter. If you have a car, make sure it is ready for whatever winter may bring. Not only should your car be kept in top operating condition all year round - for safety and fuel economy, it is especially important to get it winterized to avoid any unpleasant or dangerous situation while traveling in frigid weather. The following should be checked:

ignition system fuel system brakes exhaust system wiper blades snow tires tire tread defroster proper grade oil cooling system battery lights antifreeze

Always fill the gasoline tank before entering open country, even for a short distance, and stop to fill-up long before the tank begins to run low. Keeping your tank as full as possible will minimize condensation, providing the maximum advantage in case of trouble. A Citizens Band (CB) radio and/or cellular phone can be very useful to you or another stranded motorist in case of an emergency. Before Heading for Snow Country: Make sure your brakes, windshield wipers, defroster, heater and exhaust system are in top condition. Check your antifreeze and be ready for colder temperatures. You may need to add concentrated windshield washer fluid to the windshield washer fluid reservoir to prevent an icy windshield. More information about this type of windshield washer fluid can be found on the California Air Resources Board web site. Check your tires. Make sure they are properly inflated and the tread is in good condition. Always carry chains. Make sure they are the proper size for your tires and are in working order. You might want to take along a flashlight and chain repair links. Chains must be installed on the drive wheels. Make sure you know if your vehicle is front or rear wheel drive. Other suggested items to carry in your car are an ice scraper or commercial de-icer, a broom for brushing snow off your car, a shovel to free you car if it is "snowed in", sand or burlap for traction if your wheels should become mired in snow and an old towel to clean your hands. It is also a good idea to take along water, food, warm blankets and extra clothing. A lengthy delay will make you glad you have them. Weather conditions may warrant detouring traffic from the main roadway. It is strongly suggested that drivers always keep an updated map containing the areas of travel. If you have a cellular telephone, pre-load the Caltrans Highway Information Network (CHIN) phone numbers for convenient, updated road conditions. Put an extra car key in you pocket. A number of motorists have locked themselves out of their cars when putting on chains and at ski areas. Driving Tips: Allow enough time. Trips to the mountains can take longer during winter that other times of the year, especially if you encounter storm conditions or icy roads. Get an early start and allow plenty of time to reach your destination. Keep your gas tank full. It may be necessary to change routes or turn back during a bad storm or you may be caught in a traffic delay. Keep windshield and windows clear. You may want to stop at a safe turnout to use a snow brush or scraper. Use the car defroster and a clean cloth to keep the windows free of fog. Slow down. A highway speed of 65 miles per hour may be safe in dry weather, but an invitation for trouble on snow and ice. Snow and ice make stopping distances much longer, so keep your seat belt buckled and leave more distance between your vehicle and the vehicle ahead. Bridge decks and shady spots can be icy when other areas are not. Remember to avoid sudden stops and quick direction changes. Be more observant. Visibility is often limited in winter by weather conditions. Slow down and watch for other vehicles that have flashing lights, visibility may be so restricted during a storm that it is difficult to see the slow moving equipment. When stalled, stay with your vehicle and try to conserve fuel while maintaining warmth. Be alert to any possible exhaust or monoxide problems. Chain Requirements: R1: Chains, traction devices or snow tires are required on the drive axle of all vehicles except four wheel/ all wheel drive vehicles. R2: Chains or traction devices are required on all vehicles except four wheel/ all wheel drive vehicles with snow-tread tires on all four wheels. (NOTE: Four wheel/all wheel drive vehicles must carry traction devices in chain control areas.) R3: Chains or traction devices are required on all vehicles, no exceptions. Chain Controls: You must stop and put on chains when highway signs indicate chains are required. You can be cited by the California Highway Patrol and fined if you don't. You will usually have about a mile between "Chains Required" signs and the checkpoint to install your chains. Control areas can change rapidly from place to place because of changing weather and road conditions. The speed limit when chains are required is 25 or 30 miles an hour. When you put on chains, wait until you can pull completely off the roadway to the right. Do not stop in a traffic lane where you will endanger yourself and block traffic. Chain Installers: If you use the services of a chain installer, be sure to get a receipt and jot the installer's badge number on it. Remember, chain installers are independent business people, not Caltrans employees. Having the badge number may help with any misunderstandings later. Chain installers are NOT allowed to sell or rent chains. When removing chains, drive beyond the signs reading "End of Chain Control" to a pull-off area where you can safely remove them. 1. Know your route and keep abreast of weather conditions. The Web can be great source of current weather information. Make a list of Department of Transportation road-condition hotlines and consult them every few hours while you’re on the road. Pay special attention to avalanche conditions along your route, because temporary road closures are common in mountain areas. 2. Drink plenty of water. When the weather is chilly, dehydration might seem unlikely, but according to a study by the Mayo Clinic, as little as a 1-2 percent loss of body weight can lead to fatigue and reduced alertness — both of which can be deadly when you are driving in icy conditions. Carry (and drink) five to six 16-ounce bottles of water per day. Keep them with you in the passenger compartment, as they might freeze in the trunk. 3. Eat enough food. Your body needs more nourishment in cold weather than it does on a balmy summer day. Avoid candy bars and other quick-sugar-release snacks. Sandwiches, fruit or a thermos of hearty stew are much better choices. Carry a day’s worth of high-energy food and water in a warm area of your vehicle in case you are stranded for a few hours. 4. Pack a winter travel safety kit. Include a cell phone, an ice scraper and brush, a tow rope, cat litter (for use as a traction aid), blankets, a good flashlight, a candle, matches, a good book, a portable weather radio and a can of lock de-icer. (Never use hot water on glass or locks — it will refreeze and create a bigger problem.) Here’s a more detailed list of road trip supplies. 5. Slow down. A good rule of thumb is to reduce speed by 50 percent in snowy conditions. Blasting through snowdrifts may look cool in TV advertisements, but it’s way too hard on your vehicle to be worth it. Equally important: Don’t go too slow. Your car needs momentum to keep moving through snow on grades. 6. Keep a light touch on the controls. Smooth operation is the key to keeping control in slippery situations. Nervousness can lead to a hard clench of the steering wheel, which can result in loss of control. Consciously loosen your grasp or stretch out your fingers from time to time to help prevent that white-knuckled grip. 7. Know how to recover from skids. When braking on a slippery road, it’s all too easy to “lock up” your wheels by stepping on the brakes a little too hard. If you start to skid, steer the vehicle gently in the direction you want the front of your vehicle to go and don’t touch your brakes. This used to be called “turning into the skid,” but tests have shown that drivers often misinterpret these words in real-life situations. Here’s a detailed explanation of skid recovery. 8. Keep your tires in good condition and properly inflated. Cold weather reduces tire pressure, so check and adjust frequently. Tire tread depth should be at least 1/8-inch, and good snow tires with lugs will outperform just about any all-weather tire on the market. Carry (and be able to install) traction-control devices like snow chains whenever you know you’ll be in a snowy area. Sometimes such devices are required, and if you don’t have a set, you’ll be forced to pay a premium to acquire them on the spot. 9. Make frequent rest stops. Winter travel is much more fatiguing than summer cruising, so stop every hour or so. Get out, stretch — maybe even make a few snow angels! It takes only five minutes to significantly improve your level of alertness. 10. If you get stuck, stay in your vehicle. Stay warm and wait for assistance. Make sure that your exhaust pipe is clear of any obstructions, including snow and ice; if you don’t, carbon monoxide gas can build up inside the vehicle.

Why must I have the brake fluid flushed from my system at certain mileage intervals?

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means that it absorbs moisture. And when that moisture finds its way into your braking system, it can corrode metal and seals.


Flushing the system with new fluid removes the condensation before extensive damage can occur.


When flushing the system, always use Honda Heavy Duty Brake Fluid DOT 3. If this specific fluid is not available, you should use only DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid from a sealed container, but only as a temporary replacement. The use of any non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and may decrease the life of the system.

What causes brake squeal?

All four brakes have audible brake wear indicators. When the brake pads need replacing, you will hear a distinctive metallic "screeching" sound when you apply the brakes. If you do not have the brake pads replaced, they will begin screeching all the time.


Your brakes may sometimes squeal or squeak when you apply them lightly. Do not confuse this with the brake wear indicators. They make a very audible "screeching."


Occasional noise can be caused by the light application of brakes for a prolonged distance before stopping, or from high relative humidity. These are normally temporary and are considered normal brake noises not requiring repair.

What's a "crush washer" and why is it important to my Honda?

As a Honda owner, the crush washer you should be most concerned with is the one that must be replaced every time you change your motor oil. This crush washer fits between your oil pan and the drain plug. It is a one-time-use washer. Discard the old washer at each oil change and replace with a new one. If you have your oil changed at any service outlet other than a Honda dealer, remind them of the importance to use a new crush washer.


When a new washer is installed and the drain plug is tightened, this washer "crushes" to form a very tight seal, thereby preventing motor oil leaks without overstressing the oil pan threads.


Oil changers who are not aware of its importance may think it's OK to re-use this washer. Since it has already been crushed, it will not collapse further. As a result, the installer may overtighten the drain plug to get a tight fit. This can eventually lead to stripped threads in the oil pan -- a very expensive repair.


This is another example of why your Honda dealer is the easy choice for your service needs. Honda dealers know your Honda best.

Why should I wait to change the oil the first time?

Your Honda engine was delivered with an oil that is specially formulated for new engines that have not yet developed their "natural" wear patterns and may contain minute particles from the manufacturing process.


American Honda strongly recommends this special oil be left in the engine long enough for these wear patterns to develop, usually until the first maintenance interval specified in your Owner's Manual, based on your specific driving conditions.

Does it help to use a fuel with a higher octane rating than required in my Owner's Manual?

Refer to your Owner's Manual for the pump octane number recommended for your Honda. Use of a lower-octane gasoline than recommended can cause a persistent, heavy metallic rapping noise in the engine that can lead to mechanical damage.


There is no advantage in using a fuel with a pump octane greater than that recommended in your Owner's Manual.

What's that sulfur smell coming from my vehicle?

All gasolines contain trace amounts of sulfur. The human sense of smell can detect sulfur odor in concentrations as low as 3 to 5 parts per million in air.


The exhaust on today's catalyst-equipped Honda vehicles will emit varying degrees of sulfur odor depending on operating temperatures and conditions. On normally operating vehicles, the odor is usually noticeable when the engine is cold, right after deceleration, or after wide-open throttle acceleration.


It may not be possible to eliminate sulfur odor completely due to the various operating conditions. If the sulfur odor is overly bothersome, please contact Honda Customer Relations or your dealer for further guidance or assistance.

Are some gasolines better than others? What is "Top Tier Detergent Gasoline"?

In general, Honda recommends that you buy gasoline from high-volume, major name-brand stations.


To prevent the build up of deposits inside your engine and fuel system, it is important to choose fuels that contain effective detergent additives. The detergency of some US gasolines is insufficient to provide protection from such deposits. Honda recommends the use of "Top Tier Detergent Gasolines," where available. Gasoline brands with this designation meet new, voluntary standards and have demonstrated their ability to keep engines clean through a series of demanding tests. Significantly, Top Tier Detergent Gasoline does not contain MMT, a metallic additive that creates deposits in your engine and exhaust system; (see the MMT explanation below). Fuel brands that have achieved the Top Tier Detergent Gasoline designation can be identified through their marketing campaigns, and/or by fueling station signage.

My "Malfunction Indicator Lamp" stays on while I'm driving. What should I do?

Typically, this indicator displays for several seconds when you turn the ignition switch ON.

If you have recently refueled your Honda, this light may display to warn you of a loose or missing fuel filler cap. Check the cap and tighten it until it clicks. If the fuel cap is missing, replace it with a Genuine Honda replacement cap. Tightening the cap will not make the indicator turn off immediately; it may take several driving trips.

If the indicator continues to display after three driving trips, or if the fuel cap was not loose or missing, there may be a problem in one of the engine's emissions control systems. You should have the vehicle checked by the dealer as soon as possible.

You should also have the dealer inspect your vehicle if this indicator comes on repeatedly, even if it turns off as you continue driving

What is the break-in period of my Honda?

Help assure your vehicle's future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you drive during the first 600 miles (1,000 kilometers). During this period:

	Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration.
	Avoid hard braking. New brakes need to be broken in by moderate use for the first 200 miles (300 km).

How to protect your Car Leather Interior?

If you own a Car with leather interior, you sure have paid extra money for that leather look. Now better take care of those leather seats and the interior.

Here are a few tips to take care of your leather interior.

What Is Proper Leather Care?

Leather surfaces are just like beautiful, delicate skin. Leather must be carefully cleansed before it can be properly conditioned. As leather ages, it loses essential protectants infused into the leather during the manufacturing process. That leaves the leather susceptible to dirt, oils, and UV damage. To keep leather looking and feeling its best, you must first clean it and then replace the lost moisture and protection.

1. Tinting your Car Window helps to protect your Leather Seats

Having window tint professionally installed onto your vehicle will provide you with a stylish and sleek look. But having your car windows tinted will also serve a more useful purpose: protecting the interior of your vehicle. This is especially beneficial if your car has leather seats. Leather will eventually become brittle and crack if it is exposed to sunlight for too long. Protecting your car's interior with tinted windows can significantly prolong the life of your leather upholstery and trim, which will improve the resale value of the vehicle.

2: Regular Cleaning

Like with a good leather coat, handbag or shoes, getting the leather clean is the first step. You can wipe leather seats of spills with a soft rag and then vacuum with the crevice attachment on your sweeper. Be sure to remove all loose dirt, dust crumbs and hairs.

There are special products designed to remove stains from leather, but you must use them in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions on the packaging. It is advised to not use any home remedies as you may not know the content of the leather dye or finish, and any ingredient might ruin the leather.

3: Clean Hidden Dirt

Once stains and loose dirt are removed, use a good leather cleaner to remove the leather of dirt and grime you may not even know exists. Daily use of your vehicle can grind dirt into the seats and the creases in the seats, looking like normal wear. Dirt left in the leather can cause the leather to start to deteriorate. Apply the cleaner as per manufacturer's instructions. A good cleaner for leather is saddle soap, which is inexpensive and available any place leather cleaners and treatments are sold.

4. Use Seat Covers

You can also use water proof seat covers to protect your Leather seats.

References:
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-maintain-your-leather-seat-covers
http://www.autogeek.net/leather-car-care.html

Tips to take care of your New Car

Operating Your Car

We've compiled our best expert advice, surprising tricks, and maintenance and fix-it tips to prolong the life of your car!

1. Be patient during the break-in period
You've bought your dream car and now you want to make it last at long as possible in top condition. Here are some things to remember as you pull it out of the dealer's lot:

During the break-in period, typically the first 1,000 miles (1,600 km), keep your speed under 55 mph (88 kpm) or to the speed recommended by your car's manufacturer.

Avoid heavy loads on the drive train, such as towing trailers, and loading the roof rack or trunk with heavy construction materials.

Do not allow your new car to idle for long periods -- this is good advice for the life of your car, but especially during breakin. The oil pressure generated by doing so may not be sending oil to every part of your engine.

Use only light to medium acceleration, keeping the engine rpms below 3,000 for the first few hours of driving.

2. Drive with care everyday
Being car considerate shouldn't stop after the break-in. Drive with care every day and your car will reward you with longer intervals without repair.

Do not race your car's engine during start-up.This is a quick way to add years of wear to your engine, especially if it's cold outside.

Accelerate slowly when you begin your drive.The most wear to the engine and drive train occurs in the first ten to twenty minutes of operation.

Warming the engine by letting it idle in the driveway is not a smart idea.The engine doesn't operate at its peak temperature, resulting in incomplete fuel combustion, soot deposits on cylinder walls, oil contamination, and ultimately damaged components.

Put less strain on your engine and automatic transmission by shifting to neutral at red lights. Otherwise, the engine is still working to push the car even while it's stopped.

Avoid driving at high speeds and accelerating quickly, especially when it's very hot or very cold outside. Such driving behavior will result in more frequent repairs.

Extend the life of your tires with careful driving. Observe posted speed limits. Avoid fast starts, stops, and turns. Avoid potholes and objects on the road. Don't run over curbs or hit the tire against the curb when parking. And, of course, don't burn rubber.

When turning your steering wheel, don't hold it in an extreme right or left position for more than a few seconds. Doing so can damage the power-steering pump.

Consolidate your short driving trips. Most of the wear and tear -- as well as the pollution your car generates -- takes place in the first few minutes of driving. Doing several errands at once, during low traffic hours if possible, will keep your engine happier longer.

Source: http://www.rd.com/your-america-inspiring-people-and-stories/74-car-care-tips-to-keep-your-automobile-in-topnotch-condition/article28223.html

A guide to car insurance

Many people stick with the same insurance carrier year after year without ever shopping for a better deal. Blind loyalty to one insurer can cost you dearly. In a recent survey, Consumer Reports found that some drivers were paying twice as much for a policy than they would have with another insurer.


FINDING THE BEST RATES

Comparing premiums is easier than ever, thanks to online services such as Quicken Insurance (www.quicken.com/insurance) and InsWeb (www.insweb.com). While you can also use the Yellow Pages to canvass local insurance agents for quotes, online services let you compare multiple price quotes in minutes.

You should make this price comparison at least once a year. Still, it may not be a good idea to switch companies too often or arbitrarily. Sometimes loyalty pays. For instance, if you've been with one company several years and maintained a clean driving record, you may qualify for a safe-driver discount, which substantially lowers your premium. But if you're contemplating a switch, the new company may be willing to classify you as a safe driver. In addition, you can often get a discount for insuring more than one vehicle--or your home--with the same company.

To get an accurate quote, you'll need to provide information on the car or cars that you intend to insure: the make, model, year, trim line, and the vehicle identification number (VIN). You'll also need to give the age, sex, and recent driving record of all potential drivers. Some companies may also ask where you normally park your car, and inquire about any aftermarket accessories you may have installed to prevent theft. The insurer may independently check your driving history using public documents such as police records, and your insurance history through your current and former insurers.


BUY THE RIGHT AMOUNT

Car insurance is meant to protect you against catastrophic losses, such as a major accident or the theft of your car. Be prepared to absorb minor losses yourself, and you'll save a lot. Here are tips on separating the essentials from coverage you can probably live without.

Coverage you must have

Bodily injury liability. Should you cause an accident, the "liability" part of your insurance coverage pays the medical, rehabilitation, and, if necessary, funeral bills of your passengers, the other driver, his or her passengers, and any pedestrians involved. It also covers pain and suffering awards as well as legal costs.

Buy coverage that will pay at least $100,000 per person and $300,000 per accident. If you have sizable assets, consider increasing those limits to $250,000 per person and $500,000 per accident. Such added coverage will raise your premium at least 10 percent. We recommend that people with a high net worth have a separate "umbrella" policy to insure against a lawsuit seeking an amount beyond their auto policy's limits. You may need to buy higher insurance limits to qualify for an umbrella policy.

Property damage. This coverage pays to repair or replace another person's vehicle or other property damaged by your car. States typically require only $10,000 to $25,000. We suggest buying coverage of $100,000.

Uninsured and underinsured motorist coverage. This covers medical bills, rehabilitation, and funeral costs, as well as losses for pain and suffering for you or the passengers in your car when an accident is caused by a hit-and-run driver or someone who has little or no insurance. Get the same amount of this coverage as you do bodily injury coverage. That way, if someone who has no insurance hits you, your medical costs will be covered.

Coverage you'll probably need

Collision and comprehensive. Collision coverage pays to repair or replace your car no matter who or what caused the accident. Comprehensive pays to repair or replace your car if it's stolen or damaged as a result of a storm or other natural event. Coverage kicks in for the amount above your deductible. Choose the highest deductible you can afford to pay out of pocket--at least $500. Once the cost of this coverage equals 10 percent of your vehicle's book value, you might want to cancel it, since you will collect no more than your vehicle's market worth. Antique vehicles or cars with collector value sometimes are insured through a separate rider; or you may have to find a separate, specialty insurer.

Personal-injury protection. PIP reimburses you for lost wages and in-home care needed as a result of an accident. If you have separate health and disability policies, you can buy just the state-required minimum for PIP. The other policies should cover the balance of your needs.

Medical-payments coverage. Sometimes called med-pay, this covers medical bills for you and your passengers, regardless of who's at fault. When this coverage isn't automatically included in your policy, its costs are minimal. You may not require any if you have good health insurance. To protect passengers who may not have their own health coverage, you may want to carry at least $5,000 of this coverage.

Additional types of coverage

Roadside assistance. This coverage pays to have your vehicle towed. If you already have an auto-club membership or your car's manufacturer provides this service for free, don't buy this extra coverage.

Rental reimbursement. This coverage typically costs $30 per year and pays for a rental car--usually for up to 30 days--if your vehicle is stolen or is in the shop for repairs sustained in an accident. There's usually a cap on the amount you're reimbursed per day and per occurrence.


MONEY-SAVING TIPS

Ask for the top tier. Insurers sort customers according to their likelihood of filing a claim, then assign them to one of several categories commonly referred to as tiers. Top-tier customers who have had few or no claims in the past several years and live in neighborhoods where auto-theft rates are low, for example, can easily save 15 percent or more off the standard rate. But simply because you qualify initially or improve your driving record doesn't mean you automatically get top-tier status.

Check rates before you buy a car. The difference in premiums between one car or truck and another can be substantial. Much of that has to do with the cost of repairing collision damage, which can vary greatly even among seemingly similar vehicles.

Get equipment discounts. You may qualify for extra discounts if your car has current safety equipment such as air bags or antilock brakes. Also check about anti-theft equipment such as an alarm system, which can get you a break on the comprehensive part of your coverage.

Group your policies. Most insurers will give you a multiple-policy price break if you let them write your auto, home, and personal-liability coverage.

Improve your driving skills. Completing a certified defensive-driving course can reduce your premium in some states.

Kid factors. If you have children who drive, you'll save if they get good grades or if they attend a school located more than 100 miles from your home and don't use the car there.

Group discounts. Insurers award discounts to low-risk consumers who share a common affiliation such as a membership in an employee group, a company pension fund, or an alumni association. These so-called affinity discounts can be sizable, so if they apply to you, it pays to take advantage of them. Ask your insurer if any groups to which you belong qualify for such a discount. Alternatively, ask representatives of the groups if they work with any insurance companies.

Keep repair options open. Some insurers insist you use generic replacement parts or encourage you to bring your vehicle to certain body shops in an effort to cut claims costs. While this arrangement may lower your premium, you may want to preserve your flexibility by insuring with a company that lets you decide which parts are used (original equipment or aftermarket copies), and who does the repairs. In tests a few years ago, we found none of the aftermarket replacement bumpers tested fit as well as factory-original bumpers or stood up as well to low-speed impacts. We also had trouble making generic fenders fit properly.

How to maintain your new car

One of the reassuring qualities of contemporary cars is that they need much less-frequent service to keep them running well. Changing the spark plugs, breaker points, and condenser used to be a seasonal exercise, and body rust was accepted as a normal if unfortunate hazard of aging. Now many spark plugs can go 100,000 miles between changes. Electronic ignition has done away with the points and condenser. Chassis, suspensions, and even some transmissions are lubed for life. And factory rust-through warranties typically run six years or longer. What’s more, reliability has improved significantly. The result is that most late-model cars and trucks should be able to go 200,000 miles with regular upkeep. Here are a few simple, periodic checks and procedures you can do that will help you get there.

Three key tasks

Check the engine oil. Do it regularly—monthly for a vehicle in good condition; more often if you notice an oil leak or find you need to add oil routinely. The car should be parked on level ground so you can get an accurate dipstick reading. Don’t overfill. And if you do have a leak, find and fix it soon.

Check tire air pressure. Once a month and before any extended road trips, use an accurate tire-pressure gauge to check the inflation pressure in each tire, including the spare. Do this when the tires are cold (before the vehicle has been driven or after no more than a couple of miles of driving). Use the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle’s manufacturer, not the maximum pressure embossed on the tire’s sidewall. The recommended pressure is usually found on a placard on a front doorjamb, in the glove compartment, or in the owner’s manual. Also be sure to inspect tires for abnormal or uneven wear, cuts, and any sidewall bulges you can see.

CR advises that digital tire-pressure gauges (which cost about $15 to $25) are probably the best bet overall because they will give an accurate reading or none at all. Many pencil-type gauges (typically $10 to $15) are good as well. Note that to check the pressure in a temporary spare tire, which is often 60 psi, you will need a gauge that goes higher than that—say from 0 up to 90 pounds.

Give it a wash. Try to wash the car every week, if you can. Wash the body and, if necessary, hose out the fender wells and undercarriage to remove dirt and road salt. It’s time to wax the finish when water beads become larger than a quarter.

Other checks at each oil change

For normal driving, many automakers recommend changing the engine oil and filter every 7,500 miles or six months, whichever comes first. This is sufficient for the majority of motorists. For “severe” driving—with frequent, very cold starts and short trips, dusty conditions, or trailer towing—the change interval should be shortened to every 3,000 miles or three months. (Check your owner’s manual for the specific intervals recommended for your vehicle.) Special engines such as diesels and turbocharged engines may need more-frequent oil changes.

Check the air filter. Remove the air-filter element and hold it up to a strong light. If you don’t see light, replace it. Regardless, follow the recommended service intervals.

Check the constant-velocity-joint boots. On front-wheel-drive and some four-wheel-drive vehicles, examine these bellowslike rubber boots, also known as CV boots, on the drive axles. Immediately replace any that are cut, cracked, or leaking. If dirt contaminates the CV joint it can quickly lead to an expensive fix.

Inspect the exhaust system. If you’re willing to make under-car inspections, check for rusted-through exhaust parts that need replacing. Also tighten loose clamps. Do this while the car is up on ramps. If a shop changes your oil, have them make these checks. Listen for changes in the exhaust sound while driving. It’s usually advisable to replace the entire exhaust system all at once rather than to repair sections at different times.

Look at the brakes. For most people it makes sense to have a shop check and service the brakes. If you handle your own brake work, remove all wheels and examine the brake system. Replace excessively worn pads or linings, and have badly scored rotors or drums machined or replaced. The brakes should be checked at least twice per year; more often if you drive a lot of miles.

Check the fluids. On many newer cars, the automatic transmission is sealed. On cars where it is not sealed, check the transmission dipstick with the engine warmed up and running (see the owner’s manual for details). Also check the power-steering-pump dipstick (it’s usually attached to the fluid-reservoir cap) and the level in the brake-fluid reservoir. If the brake-fluid level is low, top it up and have the system checked for leaks.

Clean the radiator. Prevent overheating by removing debris with a soft brush and washing the outside of the radiator with a detergent solution.

Check the battery. Check the battery’s terminals and cables to make sure they are securely attached, with no corrosion. If the battery has removable caps, check its fluid level every few months—especially in warmer climates.

Regular maintenance every two to four years

Drain and flush the cooling system. Considering the hassle of collecting and safely disposing of old antifreeze, you may want to leave this to a shop.

Change the automatic-transmission fluid. Many models require that you replace the fluid and filter every 36,000 miles—sooner if the normally pink fluid takes on a brownish tint. With some cars the fluid and, if applicable, the filter can go 100,000 miles or more. With other late models, the transmission fluid never needs to be changed. Check your owner’s manual for this information.

Replace the drive belts and hoses. Do this every two to three years, even if they don’t show any wear. If a belt becomes noisy, have it adjusted.

Change the timing belt. If your vehicle has a belt instead of a chain, stick to the manufacturer’s recommended replacement interval—usually every 60,000 to 80,000 miles. Check the owner’s manual or consult a dealer. Failure to change the timing belt can result in a very expensive engine repair if the belt should break.

What to do if you car brake fails?

Ever wondered what will happen if you car brake fails to work. Toyota seems to have that problem showing up in many of its s... Sure Toyota knows what to do with it.. ... but do you know how to handle and stop your car if the brake seems to not work.

Here are a few steps you can do in case of a brake failure: Also dont forget to view the videos below... it should be helpful.

Step 1: Dont Panic

Step 2: Take your foot off the gas, and turn off cruise control if you have it on.

Step 3: Pay attention to how your brake pedal feels.

Step 4: If your brake pedal is soft and goes to the floor, you may have low fluid, a faulty master cylinder or problems with your drums or calipers. You may be able to rebuild some braking pressure by pumping the brakes (see the next step).
If your brake pedal is hard and does not move, something in your brake system may have seized or you may have an obstruction under the pedal. Try to feel with foot (or have a passenger look) to see whether you have something under the brake pedal.

Step 5: Pump your brakes. Pumping your brakes several times may rebuild enough pressure in the braking system for you to stop. This may take a while, so keep trying. You should do this even if your car is equipped with ABS as the ABS is only activated when your car is braking too hard, which won't be the problem if your brakes have failed. Then, regardless of whether the car has ABS brakes or not, quickly squeeze the brakes down to the floor, to make the most out of all of the pressure you have preserved or built-up, as hydraulic (or air) brakes rarely fail all together. Keep the brakes squeezed to the floor.

Step 6: Shift into low gear. Shifting into lower gears helps slow you by using your engine to slow the car.

Step 7: Use the emergency brake

Step 8: Keep your eyes on the road and continue to steer

Step 9: Warn other drivers and pedestrians

Step 10: Slow the vehicle however you can

Step 11: Look for a safe spot to pull over (or to crash).

Step 12: Steer sharply from side-to-side Turning creates friction, which slows your car naturally

Source: http://www.wikihow.com/Stop-a-Car-with-No-Brakes




How to stop your vehicle if accelerator sticks

My Car does not start, not able to turn my key

Rock your wheel a bit as your turn your key...

I often rent car with Enterprise. I have always been happy with their service and their car conditions. No big complaints till now.

I am not an expert in car and also not a very regular user of car.... so this problem seemed a bit panicky to me... though it was just a common and simple problem. I had to call enterprise and they had to come and start the car.

My problem was my car was not starting. I was not able to turn my keys. It seemed all locked up. I thought there is some major problem with the ignition, but then later realised that the car wheel locks itself if you switch off and remove the keys with torque still remaining in the wheels. Its a sort of a Safety feature which locks the steering wheel and thus you are not able to turn the key to start the car. What I had to do was, just to insert the key turn it and also turn the steering wheel a bit to just loosen it.... thats it, you should be able to turn the key and start the car.... It was that simple... but i was ignorant about it, so had to call my car company to come and help me.... was a bit embarrasing... but also learnt something new and how to solve another car common problem....